Day 48 - From Kagoshima to Fukuoka, The Last Sprint

10/10 & 11/10

Bonus Stage!! So as mentioned before I was supposed to take the Shinkansen to Fukuoka, but because I didn't want to go through the hassle of bringing a bike on the train I thought I might as well bike the last bit home. Then I was supposed to sleep somewhere close to Kumamoto city, but as I didn't really fancy waking up to bike yet another day I decided to "work overnight" so to speak. This is how it all began:

Taking the 12 hours package at the manga cafe was a good idea, I was well rested and had had the time to play around with the computer and so on, usually it was one or the other, haha. I set out at 8 o'clock not knowing anything other than what cities I had to go through in order to go to Kumamoto.

The weather was lovely and my shoes were dry in no time while I biked so I had that going for me. I still had the feeling of yesterday's trip in my legs and arms, but knowing that it would soon be over I hurried along the coastline with the rising sun over Sakurajima, it was a beautiful day indeed.

I got to Aira, the city before the mountains I had to go through. I was feeling good despite everything and even though I got kind of lost, (taking the wrong roads, but still ending up finding the way in the end), I was happy not to have taken the Shinkansen home.

And the mountains were as awe-inspiring as always. But somehow my feeling towards them had changed. Yes it was tough to go over them, but while looking down on the asphalt or looking on the endless road ahead of me, I found the strength to continue. Indeed it was the feeling of the last day. The bonus stage. My victory road.

I had two mountain ranges to cross and after the first one I needed a short break at a restaurant. I have wondered what people think when they see me in the setting of a restaurant wearing my bike clothes. People always look, but no one ever asks about why I'm there inside the restaurant. In front of the super market they don't seem to have a problem with asking though. I wonder what is so different.

I made terrible time through the next mountain range, but it was all according to plan. That's what I was telling myself, there was no plan. I didn't really know how to finish of my trip, but I thought if I just kept going forward I would reach not only the finish line, but also an idea of what I was to do.
(Deep stuff, right?)

The sun was setting and I still had some 50 km. to Kumamoto. I was still able to continue and I didn't want to go all the way to Kumamoto city since it would be a detour. Or rather if I went to Kumamoto city it would be a detour if I wanted to avoid the mountains. And I really wanted to avoid them this time around. Biking through them in the middle of the night wasn't a part of my plan.

So I went around the mountains along the coastline. There were some smaller cities and some street light along the roads so it wasn't completely dark. But with more than 100 km. to Fukuoka and going from city to city was beginning to get a bit old. I was going to fall asleep if this continued.

I could sleep while biking that I'm sure. If something happened like I crashed or something I would fall asleep right away, haha. But I stopped at several stores and bought something to eat in order to get new energy. The rice balls and micro wave food wasn't cutting it anymore so the last stop I made I bought breakfast instead. The biggest yogurt and granola I could find and a bag of bread. I ate the whole thing after that I wasn't sleepy anymore. My guess is that I consumed more than 1500 calories, whatever the case it worked though.

I biked. To quote Fight Club. I biked and my muscles burned and my veins were pumping battery acid. Then I biked some more. The choice of just finding a place out of the way, pull out my sleeping bag and then get some hours of sleep before the sun got up was tempting. That choice got more and more real. But there was no tomorrow anymore. The last sprint indeed. I was standing on my bike more than I usually would because my legs and bottom were hurting.

It must have looked crazy as I ran through the city with only one thing on my mind: finally finishing what I started more than 48 days ago, the biggest journey I had ever been on. I reached my goal. Ayana was up and answered the door, I took a shower and went to sleep for 7 hours. I'm feeling fine right now, my head is a bit empty, like I have all these thoughts, but they are just lingering in the back of my mind, making way for the one thought I can't help but think: I did it, I don't have to bike anymore.

I'm going to miss it though. The life of being a traveler, not knowing what will happen around the next corner, not knowing tomorrow. It's more real than anything else I have tried so far. I don't have to be someone, I can be anyone. And I was. I'm ready to start a new life though. Together with Ayana! This will be my next journey. Maybe one day I'll write a blog about that!

Finally I want to say thank you to all the people who helped me here in Japan, to the people who cheered on me, who read my blog or Facebook posts. To the people who believed that I could make it and to the people who thought it was impossible. I want to say thanks to my family for letting me go without making it too difficult, I know it must have been hard for you and you must have worried a lot, but you understood that I had to do it. I want to say thank you to Ayana for waiting for me. She puts up with a lot of my silly ideas and I know that. My trip would have been very different. I'm not sure I would have pushed myself like I did if she wasn't waiting for me. She has been the best motivation for me!

My trip ended at 4350 km. That's 500 km more than I anticipated. I guess sightseeing and detours make up most of those 500 km, but I did change some parts. But usually that meant adding kilometer more than cutting them off. And I could have done it faster, but meeting friends, sightseeing and of course staying with Ayana for some time was more important than finishing as fast as possible. I reckon I could do it in 35 days, and I'm not sure it would be more tough without the breaks actually. I just needed to plan the route and stops better.

I wonder if I found myself during this travel. It's still to early to say. And maybe it's okay if I didn't, haha. Thanks for reading this far!

People with questions are welcome to email me  (schultzanders@live.dk).

Distance: 309km.
Time: 16.25 hours
Condition: Ready for the next adventure!
Quote: Nothing is impossible with the right frame of mind

Day 47 - To hell and Back

9/10

Having found a place to sleep, after much searching around, I was quite satisfied. I had a roof, a bench and someone else was also planning to sleep in the there, I guessed. I had no idea what the place was used for, but it had plenty of benches and a really big roof, but no walls and the floor was replaced by sand. I suspected the place to be an old building that no one used anymore or a sports arena of some sort, but I didn't care enough to find out and I went to bed.

I woke up because of the RAIN.. and the WIND! It was like a storm and I had to crawl away from the middle of the bench and hide behind one of many pillars holding the roof. After 30 minutes it stopped and I went back to sleep, it was still only 3:00.

At 5 I heard foot steps. I thought that I would find out which it was, a building I was not allowed in or a sports place. The man walked right pass me and I went back to sleep, no need to hurry, I had 1 hour more to sleep in. Not 2 minutes after that I heard foot steps again... I began to question myself. The frequency of the foot steps changed, I heard more and more people walking around. I turned over and saw the silhouettes of people walking around and around.

I guess they were exercising, but oh well, I still had some time to sleep. at 6, after the sun began to rise, I woke up, answers some questions to the people who walked and then left in the rain for Sata Misaki. I guess I was still sleeping, I managed to miss a turn and added 10 km. to my day. Great.

More hills and mountains and I had the feeling of "are we there yet", but in a bad way. There was little joy to be found in my situation other than if I kept going, my day would soon be over and therefore suck less. I made slow progress and my feet started to hurt. My shoes were soaked and the combination of wet shoes, overworked legs and mountains made my feet, especially my toes hurt a lot.

I came through numerous cities that I had no idea existed when I finally came to the last tourists stop. I thought. From here I had to take a shuttle bus due to some construction work. I was annoyed and scared that my trip might have been all for nothing. I asked the man working there whether the bus would take me to Sata Misaki. He did not give me the answer I wanted, and I was too tired to be playing games so I asked again. "Sata Misaki?" He pointed to the bus and I smiled, hopped on the bus and hoped that I would end up where I wanted.

Now, the road was under no construction. Nothing was going on, I was thinking that I saved a few kilometers, but then again.. Right? We came to the last part of the road, from here we had to walk on foot. I rushed all the way to the last part of the road.. A sign saying construction work in progress, sorry for the.. Whatever. When the last people from my group went back I jumped over the fence and proceeded along the road. Yeah, sure, lots of iron pipes and tools to be found, but nothing seemed to be going on. The "construction" had been there for some time, but wasn't about to end anytime soon. I took the pictures, forgot the rock... I went back to get the rock, returned to the bus and went on my way.

At a store I saw that the picture of me at the view point was blurred.... I hate that fact that I didn't check the picture, but I guess it is a good story now.. Or in some years. I had strong winds all the way to the ferry I was to take to Kagoshima. About 50 km from Sata Misaki. the ride back was slow and boring, I had already seen the scenery. I went to eat at a small family driven restaurant and I order a bunch of different main dishes. She was shocked, but I told her where I was going. That convinced her.

I made it to Kagoshima, toured the city. I like it a lot! Will come back here at some point!!!
Then I found a manga cafe and I'm staying here for some 12 hours, I need my energy for tomorrow! Speaking of which, I'll go on whatever road says Fukuoka xx km, I can't find a way without mountains anyway!

Oh, and I reached 4000 km. No biggie.
Kumamoto, Fukuoka, done!

Distance: 153 km
Time: 8.20
Condition: Dry.. For now.
Quote: At least I won't die of dehydration today.

Day 46 - Almost There!

8/10

I awoke to the sound of heavy rain. It was 03:00 and still too early to depart. Besides, rainy weather wasn't the thing I wanted right from the morning. 

At around 06:00 it had stopped and I could move on. The train station master was out to check me the night before, but he must have decided I didn't cause anyone any harm as I was lying on one of the benches behind the station. 

The mosquitoes had been kept away because of the rain, but they managed to get some good ones in, but I knew the bites would disappear as soon as I got my blood pumping. And indeed that would be the case. 

More mountains and strong winds caused my speed to drop significantly. I spent most of the time daydreaming about whatever came to mind as I slowly made my way through the hilly terrain. 

I made it to the city where I had planned to sleep, but since I still had time before the sun went down I continued. Before that I got some food at a food corner, a big place with many small restaurants in a nearby mall.

Everyone was looking at me. Some even said hi, but I made sure it didn't amount to more than hi, I was on a tight schedule after all. 

I moved through yet another mountain range and although it was dark I made good speed. It was mostly downhill and I was doing 50 km/t easily. It feels so good riding downhill, especially when it's dark. Exciting stuff! 

I got to the next big city, showered in a public bath at a hotel, went for dinner at Joy Full restaurant and now I'm sitting in McDonald's and catching that sweet, free WiFi.

I really wanted to go to Sata Misaki today, but I can't sleep anywhere there since it's so remote and nothing but forests surrounds it. Also, I want to see it in brought daylight.

The weather forecast says rain tomorrow, but I really hope it won't be showering from morning until nighttime... I only have one pair of shoes... 

Tomorrow I'll sleep in Kagoshima, and I might find a manga café. After that it's more mountains and then I'm off to Fukuoka as fast as possible. Might do a short stop in Kumamoto, let's see how I feel.

Sata Misaki, wait a bit more! 

Distance: 175 km
Time: 9:25 hours
Condition: Not sure what to feel about finishing tomorrow and then go home by bike... hmm...
Quote: Enjoy the simple things in life

Day 45 - A Wall to Climb

7/10

Waking up at 7:00 was a luxurious thing and especially because I woke up in one of the rooms in the inn. Which is pretty awesome by the way. 

I got a very, very nice breakfast menu and a traditional lunchbox to go. I left at 9:00. The 40 km. to Oita was so easy that I made it in 1 hour and 10 minutes. I thought my legs were kind of tired from yesterday and I understood why. I must have climbed all the way from Fukuoka to be this high above sea level. It was downhill most of the way and I easily made 35 without trying. 

From Oita to Hyuga, today's goal, would be through mountains. Nothing but mountains. And I saw incredible scenery. Lakes with blue-green-ish water crawling between the giant mountains covered by tall pine trees. Up and down, (mostly up it feels), through tunnels, and then with great persistence I made it to Hyuga. 

I punctured 20 k before though, (guess which tire), luckily it was downhill and I went and bought a spare tube as soon as I could. 

Then I found a restaurant with traditional Japanese set menu dishes and second helpings of rice. And I ate a lot of rice, muhahahaha.

Now I'm looking for a place to sleep, I went a bit further to the south part of the city, but it isn't even 22:00 yet... 

Tomorrow I'll probably reach Sata Misaki. I hope. And no more head wind, please. It's really cramping my style. 

Distance: 160 km.
Time: 7.21 h
Condition: wishing for good weather tomorrow
Quote: if you get tired of biking you can always get a flat...

Day 44 - One Week Left, I Leave it to You

6/10

I woke up and started making breakfast, but didn't get much done before Ayana's mom  woke up and did everything for me.. I really wonder how to repay her for all the things she has done for me.

After forgetting both phone and watch I ventured on. Legs felt fine, sense of direction didn't. But no major detours occurred and the lovely atmosphere around Dazaifu makes it a pleasant place to "explore". = nice way to say get lost. 

Today's course was 103 km, but I figured I would end up with more so I left Fukuoka at 6 something. I also feared for the mountains later on. 

The first 80 was really easy and I made it in very good time, but after a break just before the climb of a big mountain pass I felt the heat and my legs, haha. 

After getting on the other side of the pass I made 50 km/h in average all the way down and arrived at Ayana's dad's house at around 14:00. 

As many might be familiar with I have met him before. Twice. Last January. Both was in  the Ayana's company and therefore I felt quite nervous to be honest. But I thought a lot (actually I thought about it for more than 40 days,  all the way from Hokkaido) about what to say to him. 

Although Ayana is going to Denmark of her own free will, etiquette dictates that I kind of have to have "a talk" with her dad. Now there are many things to consider and so on and so forth, but in the end it boils down to me saying that I'll take good care of his daughter.
(That's quite literally what you can say if you want to make it short.)

Now I respect her dad a lot and I really see him as someone I can look up to in certain regards of life. And I can't say anything that will convince him more than just living a happy life with Ayana. So that's my next adventure! 

After sitting and talking while eating for more than two hours I retired to my room and took a long bath in the natural spa for the second time. Then I watched a football match where Japan won. Very interesting match btw. And now I'm thinking about tomorrow and all the mountains. By far the toughest day. Maybe even if you count all the other days too. 

Distance: 117 km
Time: 5:30 h
Condition: feeling zen-ish
Quote: I bet my life everyday

Day 35 - 43: Vacation Time in Fukuoka!

29/9 - 5/10

The last 8 days have been really great. Of course I stayed with Ayana and her mom here, so this has been the more luxurious part of my journey. We have had some lazy days, but we have also visited friends, made pottery and we went to the movies to see Your Name.

Being back in Fukuoka is great, so many memories are coming back. But the best thing about being back here is of course the fact that I can be with Ayana, and we spent a lot of time wondering about the life we'll have in Denmark. Not much has been planned yet, but I'm sure we'll manage somehow. Hakuna matata!

Now for the last part of my trip: I have decided to go around Kyushu. This is a 7 days trip, a total of some 800 km. And I'll have to face some serious mountains, even if I take the easiest route that is. But I'm getting much lighter, my bike will have two front bags and I'll only have the most necessary things with me.

This should make my trip much easier, but I have no idea how it will feel to ride it. Also, the route is as always not set in stone. The first day is approximately 103 km, and I'll arrive at Ayana's dad's place. Hopefully not too late, I don't want to be too much trouble, hehe.

The rest of the days vary in length due to the fact that I want visit the big cities, and since it's just a week I might go all out and test my limits. As it is now I feel like my trip has ended and I'm starting a new, and although this is not the feeling I wanted to leave Fukuoka with I'm left with no choice. I will reach Sata Misaki and end what I started.

I also decided that I will revise everything on my blog when I get home, I'll rewrite and improve paragraphs and adjust the itinerary so it fits my actual trip. Then I'll post the last pictures and write comments for them on this blog too. Hopefully I'll read it many years from now and think about how far I have traveled since then.

Going around Kyushu!! Starting tomorrow!

Condition: feeling ready to go!
Quote: now is always the time!

Day 33 & 34 - Moving towards Kyushu, Feeling Close to Home!

27/9

My sleeping place was decided on a wimp, I want to the peace park again and slept there on a bench in front of the dome that is famous for having survived the nuclear bombing. I woke up early and I had a very long day in front of me, some 200 km and it wasn't flat at all..

But for the first time during the trip I felt like I was finally moving towards the end. And although Fukuoka isn't the last stop I was stoked to be able to see Ayana in a few days. According to my original plan the trip I was to undertake was over two days, but I was determined to reach Shimonoseki, the last city on Honshu before Kyushu.

The first 40 km were so easy, I made great speed, and I'm sure I got to Iwakuni before the cars because there was so much traffic, but I easily reached 40 km/t and it was very different from the last couple of days.

The route I took for the next 90 km was mountains and not much fun at all. I decided to change the route, adding 10 km, but I like to believe it was a better choice, I covered it pretty quickly either way.

But the sun decided to come back and I think it was 33 degrees at some point. I was not really used to it with all the rain I had been going through and it was difficult, but the idea of a long break in Fukuoka kept me from taking too many breaks. Some 16 hours after departing I got to see the bridge that would lead me to Kyushu. Or rather I would have to take the tunnel under the strait, but same thing for me really.

Ayana had told me about the rain that was falling in Fukuoka, and it sounded terrible, but it wouldn't reach me until some hours so I hurried all I could to the bridge. I could see the thunder from afar and the night scenery was so beautiful! Like a scene taking from the last boss battle in a game! I wasn't looking forward to the rain though. I had two choices, just continue through the rain, or stop and rest until the thunderstorm moved on. I chose the last. The next day would be close to 100 km and I needed the rest. I slept on a bench in the building where the tunnel was, and the rain already started once I got to the other side.

Distance: 213 km.
Time: 10.15 hours

28/9

Waking up at 3 am I packed and then went on towards Fukuoka and of course to Ayana!! Finally the day where I would see her again, 8 months where the last one has been especially tough!!

I went early because the rain wasn't as strong, and thankfully I made it without too many wrong turns and I didn't get a flat!!! Amazing, haha. After 4.30 long hours I got to the station and got the address and then I went home to Ayana. I can't describe how happy I am to see her. It is going to suck so bad when I have to leave here on the 5th, but I need to finish what I started.

My plan says I need to go 3800 km or something, but I can already see that it will be way more. Despite the fact that I didn't go to Nikko and that I will skip Nagasaki too. I most have done a lot detours and sightseeing, haha. But I still have to go to the most southern part, Cape Sata. And I also have to go to APU, a university on the way there where I know someone. And not to forget, I'll swing by Ayana's dad's place and apologize for stealing his daughter. Oh boy!

The last couple of days made me realize how far I have come. Not just on this journey, but in life too. I'm not sure I consider myself a grown up, I can't say I believe in growing up, we just get wiser, but I'm ready to start a new part of my life after this trip. Maybe that's growing up, maybe it's just what happens, but I'm still looking forward to it with the eager you see in kids and young minded alike.

The next week will be spent visiting friends, going places and preparing for the next part of the trip. And I need to find the courage to battle the mountains of Kyushu... I'll make it happen!

Distance: 93 km.
Total distance: 3433 km
Time: 4:30 hours
Condition: feeling pretty damn good!
Quote: if home is where the heart is then I have been going in the right direction.

Day 31 & 32 - Imabari Laziness, Cycling Paradise and Hiroshima!

25/9

I woke up and wanted to get down from the mountain village I stayed in. First I had to climb the last bit though, but the way down was amazing! Love when it's down mountain/hill, but it inevitably means, at least for me who is doing long distance biking that I will have to go up again. 

It started raining and I wrapped my stuff up and continued. After 100 km I reached Imabari, the city just before the bridges that would lead me back to the main island, Honshu. The trip was long and my legs felt heavy, but I made it in somewhat good time. 

The rain got really bad and after eating tons of food near the station. (Went to two different restaurants), I decided to go to a spa. I stayed there for 9 hours, bathing, reading manga, sleeping and eating again. 

At 00:00, after thinking a lot and looking at maps, blogs and weather forecasts, I made a decision. I would go on to the bridges tonight. It didn't rain, but I had 6 hours before it would start again. 

The first 3 islands where easy, although the way to the first one was a bit tricky. When I got to the third island it was already 03:00. I decided to go slow and maybe catch a good view of the islands and bridges, but it soon started raining. 

Oh yeah, the rain by the way. I was kind of annoyed at the weather forecasts, but what can you so do, eh. On the fourth island I thought I might as well sleep a couple more hours and so I did. I would wake up, take the two last islands, get the view and be better rested. Although I slept some hours in the spa, riding in the dark makes you sleepy. 

26/9

When I woke up it was still raining and I just went on without doing much else than dreaming of my next big stop in Fukuoka. 

On the last island I had to take the world's shortest ferry ride. And for 70 yen. I'm not even kidding. I could throw my shoe to the other shore with the right wind conditions.

Then I ate breakfast and biked on. I took a detour not wanting to go through the mountains,
It turned out the trip wasn't that difficult and the 30 something extra kilometers were easy to finish. I felt great and I could have continued further, but okonomiyaki, a food pancake with whatever you want, was waiting for me. 

I went to a convenience store and there an old man and his family talked to me. The usual questions and then I was told that he did a trip around Hokkaido. He told me he was young back then and I ensured him he was still capable of doing a similar trip despite his age.

I didn't expect to be approached by someone in the city like that. I already felt a good vibe from Hiroshima. And the city is very awesome. Nice size, not overcrowded and a good city center. 

In the peace park I found out that I had a flat.... but wait, it was on the front tire!!
I just wrote about the fact that it's always the back tire... but as it turned out the front tire is easy to get on and off. No problem. 

In the park a met a guy who has been living here for over 14 years. He is originally from Germany, but lives here in Japan with his wife. He wanted to help me if I needed a bike store, and I'll go to it tomorrow and get spare tubes. 

Of course he knew about the city in ways tourists or people just passing through can't possibly know. I gave them my blogspot so if you're reading this I want to thank you again for helping out, I love that about traveling and meeting people!

I went for a public bath and then ate okonomiyaki, (the place I was suggested was unfortunately closed). 

Now I'm wondering how to spent the night, I might take some hours at a manga café or something like that. Tomorrow morning I'll go see the castle and maybe some other things if I feel like it. 

But tomorrow I'll also try to get as far as possible to Fukuoka. The trip feels like it will end there, but I also know that it isn't the case. I just can't wait to have some days with friends and of course my lovely girlfriend who is waiting patiently for my arrival. It won't be on a white horse, but a dead beat bike and a ton of baggage. Let's see how far I can take it tomorrow. Again, want to stay longer in Hiroshima, but time is money and I will definitely come back here again, no doubt. Top 5 of the cities so far.

Distance: 100 km.
Distance 2: 190 km.
Time in total covering both: 15 hours
Condition: loving the cool vibe in Hiroshima!
Quote: peace is free.

Day 30 - On to Shikoku!

24/9

After sleeping really well in the station I packed my stuff and left for Wakayama where I was to take the ferry to Shikoku. 

I made good speed although it was a bit hilly. I reached the city around 9, having been on the road for about 3 hours or something. 

Just before reaching the terminal I noticed that my back tire (oh I kid you not...!) was missing air. I hoped that it just needed some air, but thought it more likely to be punctured. While we're on the subject I have been wondering why it's always the back tire. It's the most annoying to change and you would think it would be the front tire to hit things first, right?

I could've changed it while waiting on the ferry, but I wanted to relax instead so I went to the waiting room. There, two older men talked to me and we had a good conversation about my current situation. They were kind of impressed. 

I went on the ferry and slept for the entire ride. After arriving in Tokushima I changed the tube. In front of the entire group of passengers waiting to take the bus. But I didn't care, haha. 

Then I made slow progress through the city where the traffic lights and a surprisingly good amount of cars made it difficult to go faster. I liked Tokushima though. Interesting city from the looks of it. 

I had 170 km to go, I already did 70 km, but because of the tire and the time the ferry trip took I couldn't make it before it got too dark to ride over the mountain pass. I could, but decided not to. I'm now sitting in a station where there is a closed 7-eleven and free WiFi. And I went to a public bath too. Nice! 

It's Saturday and almost everything is closed. No drunk people in the streets and the city is very quiet. I'll try to sleep here in the station, but first: the hunt for dinner begins. 

Distance: 150 km
Time: 7 h
Condition: glad to have showered.
Quote: forward I'll go no matter what.

Day 29 - From Osaka to Nara.. and then some.

23/9

I woke up after getting not much more than a couple of hours of sleep, but I didn't want to spend more money on the mange café so I went sightseeing very early in the morning. So early that the people trying to get customers to their store still stood the same place as yesterday. It was 3:30..

I went to all the places you go to in Osaka, and then I made preparations for today's trip to Nara. I would have to cross a mountain range, but I chose the best place to cross and hoped for the best. I really wanted to go to Nara.

The rain was falling steady without it being a shower, haha. I went on and hoped that the rain would stop once I reached Nara. It didn't take long to go the 55 km. And getting there was not as hard as I had feared. 

Once in Nara I went to see many shrines and temples and gates and I spent some time with the infamous Shika deers. They were not that bad, especially if you don't have the biscuits. When do people ever learn? 

Having spent 5 hours of sightseeing I thought about my next move. There was approximately 100 km to Wakayama, the next big city where I was to take the ferry to Shikoku. But I thought it would be easier to go some of the way and then gain some more time in the end. I have learned that when you have time, energy and nice weather then you better be working the bike otherwise you'll regret it.

Now, I got a good 50 km. before I wanted to take a longer break and recharge my phone. I found a MacDonald and sat there for some time. 

Suddenly I heard someone saying excuse me in my direction. I always go to the Mac without buying something there because I don't like to eat there so I was sure that they wanted to ask me to leave. But it turned out to be someone sitting at a table on the other side. She is from South Africa and teaches English in town. I was kind of surprised about meeting a non-Japanese all the way out here, but thought it must be a nice experience for her. 

I left in order to find something to eat and I wanted to look around for a place to sleep. After eating a feast at a set menu place in the mall, I met the girl again. Her name is Yentel and we talked for hours about being in Japan, being a foreigner in Japan and so on. 

We also talked about many other things and I wish I could stay longer, but I needed to sleep so I went to the station which didn't lock for the night and I slept very comfortably.

Tomorrow's plan is to cross Shikoku, let's see how that plays out. 

Distance: 105 km
Time: 6:30
Condition: ready to sleep!
Quote: as you think so shall you become

Day 28 - Here We Go, Osaka!

22/9

Today was visiting friends in Osaka day. Though most of them didn't really live in Osaka City, haha! I went to Osaka University Campus in Ibaraki, Osaka Prefecture... And it was in the mountains alright. Not too difficult to get to though, but the location surprised me. I met up with Tau and Arisa, my kouhais, hehe. And then they showed me around on the campus.

I must say, I am most excited to hear about their stories and I can't wait to see how their stay will turn out. Very interesting! 

After that I went to meet Cory and his wife. I was very much looking forward to that as well, it's been 3 years since we parted ways in Fukuoka and many things have happened since then! We ate a huge lunch and spent much time talking about everything. They were very kind to me too and I wish I could've stayed longer. 

But I had one more friend to visit. Saya who went to Copenhagen university 1 year ago as an exchange student. It was really good to see her again and we talked a lot over late dinner in a.. Hmm.. Cute restaurant...? The food was good, but I'll never go there alone that's for sure, hahaha! 

Now, after walking in the rain and getting all my things wet again, (just the bags, don't worry so much!!!), I went to E Street, a really funky place, found a manga cafe and settled in for the night! 

Today felt short and I didn't do much besides talking. Felt great meeting all those people though! Tomorrow sightseeing and Nara and more sightseeing!

Cheers! 

Distance: 70 km
Time: 4.20 h
Condition: Feeling the Osaka vibe!
Quote: Oh hey rain, you were not missed!

Day 27 - Goodbye Kyoto, Hello Osaka

21/9

I woke up and went to the Golden pavilion, one of the most famous landmarks in Kyoto from early morning, although I have been there before, I thought that since it was so close I might as well go and get a traditional Japanese experience. But of course there were too many tourists to be able to enjoy the atmosphere.

I was asked by a group of school kids from Tokyo to answer some questions in English and while talking to me I heard what they said in Japanese. Oh, if only they knew I could understand them... I wish they knew that. And not just them, but most Japanese. They don't see it as an option and therefore they end up saying whatever they think without filtering it, haha. Almost always interesting.

I went to the dormitory where my friends stayed and played smash brothers with Kasper. Then I washed my clothes and watched sumo on the tv. Great. After spending the entire day in their ihouse I got a taste once again of the great life there and I really wish I could go back to the time I lived in Fukuoka. But the trip must go on!

The entire day was quickly spent doing nothing special and we went to eat all-you-can-eat yakiniku (meat BBQ). It was amazing of course. The Danish students and some of their dorm friends joined and we had a blast. after that I packed my stuff, said goodbye and went on to Osaka. And this is where you reached the present time in my post. I'm looking for a place to sleep while updating the blog.

Tomorrow it's sightseeing and visiting friends in Osaka and hopefully getting a bit of rest before the next few days of bike madness begins. From Osaka to Fukuoka through Shikoku is where I don't know anyone and so I might do this part faster than I planned out. Let's see how well I do in Shikoku.

I would like to thank Kasper for helping me out while I stayed here, it was really great! Enjoy your time and best of luck, my friend!

Distance: 35 km
Time: 2.20
Condition: not hungry
Quote: more meat, please!

Day 26 - Typhoon in Kyoto!

20/9

I felt like I needed more sleep when I awoke from my sleep in the manga cafe. Because I'm charged every new hour I made haste and got out of there as early as possible. Not many things are open at 05:00. I needed more sleep so I went to a public space in Kyoto station after getting my bike at the dormitory where my friends live. 

And it was raining a lot.. Biking with an umbrella was a new experience for me and I can't say I like it. But since I have to care about things getting wet I had but little choice. Yesterday I did it without and it worked because almost everything was dry in my bags, almost. 

After getting more sleep I went to the manga museum and my expectations were sky high. I have read several articles from one of the professors at the university who is behind the museum and I must say I wasn't disappointed. Very good information and critical of many problems when addressing manga as a medium. 

There were a lot of things worth seeing and after concluding the exhibitions I went to the cafe inside the museum. The food wasn't enough and not really worth the price, but I had to eat and I wasn't finished with my stay there. (It was still raining). 

I had a nice experience though, the Japanese woman sitting next to me dared a question and we were talking for more than 20 minutes about whatever. It was in English though. I thought she picked the language since she engaged the conversation, but later I admitted I was able to speak Japanese too. Oh well. 

I went to the relaxing room where fat boys and comfy chairs made reading manga much more comfortable. And I stayed there for more than 6 hours reading manga and sleeping. So nice! But I noticed a lot of people where looking at me. Not because I was sleeping, so many other people did so too, but they were writing something. Or drawing maybe? I didn't know and I still don't know. But I like to think they were drawing people in there, haha. 

After finally getting myself worked up to leave the place I went through the streets of Kyoto to the dormitory, played some video games, ate some dinner and now I'm looking for a place to sleep. 

Distance: 25 km. 

Time: 2 hours

Condition: still kind of tired. 

Quote: you are living life now. (Saw it at a temple, thought it made sense and then I thought some more about it.) good times. 

Day 25 - A Small Change of Plans

19/9

Waking up this morning I realized that I had made a dinner event in Kyoto and it was today.. I messed up the dates and I'm really sorry! But I changed the event as fast as 7-eleven's WiFi permitted and hope that no damage was done.

I decided to go to Kyoto today though and there are many reasons. First of all it's raining and it will continue the next 4 days. So going through the mountains to Iga is not my favorite scenario. And I have friends in Kyoto and another typhoon is coming so Kyoto is the safer choice.

I made really good speed and shorten my breaks a bit too, although I really didn't have to because I made such great speed. And although it was raining I thought little of it, my stuff would be somewhat dry and if not I wasn't really going to use it in Kyoto anyway.

I thought a lot about what to do with Nara and Osaka and in what order I should go where. But I decided to do Osaka after Kyoto if it rains too much to go for a day trip to Nara from Kyoto. I really want to go, but the weather has to be nice because I have to be outside in Nara all day if I want to see the temples and parks which Nara is famous for.

Although I made the decision to go to Kyoto because I didn't want to ride my bike in the mountains it didn't mean that there were no mountains on the way to Kyoto.. I made good speed even there though! And getting back in Kyoto after 3 years was nice. I really like this city, I don't know why. The atmosphere is just... special. I walked in the rain here earlier with my ipod, listening to relaxed music and it was just right!

I have friends here in Kyoto and I ate dinner with one of them and his friend. After that we went back to their dormitory and played Smash Brothers. (Nice! ) And now I'm listening to the thunder storm outside from a manga cafe. I wonder how tomorrow's weather will be!

Distance: 168 km
Time: 7.30 h
Condition: Feeling good!
Quote: Wait.. I didn't get lost today even once?!

Day 24 - A Rainy Day in Good Company

18/9

So waking up in the parking lot and knowing that most of the day was going to be relaxed was really appreciated, but I was also wondering a lot about when to leave. And it isn't easy leaving, especially when the next two days will have a serious lack a familiar faces.. I can't wait till I reach Kyoto. 

Samar met me halfway to the parking lot and we went for breakfast. It was a pretty nice cafe and we sat there for almost two hours until the dormitory opened and I could log in as a guest. And I kind of felt at home there. I wished I could stay in a place like that just once more, but I'm afraid the experience in Fukuoka ruined everything for me. I will undoubtedly compare and get disappointed.

After chilling, getting lunch and doing laundry we went to a bike shop and I got some things fixed. It wasn't free, but it was done well and I have to sown some money on it once in a while. Better that than standing in the mountains with a problem that can't be fixed. 

After that Samar took the bus with some people from the I-house and went to the festival. I got my bike from the store, packed my stuff and went in the same direction. 

I was told by the staff in the store that I had raised the saddle higher than recommended, and I could do nothing but look at the kind store clerk and say: "that can't be helped, really." The bike is too small and I can't lower the saddle without considering the damage it would do to my legs and my back, so for now I'm keeping it like this. 

It was raining lightly as I went the 10 minutes to the festival. It was quite big, lots of people and food stands, dancing and a big stage. But no temple, shrine or anything. I think they just wanted to have a festival maybe, but the weather wasn't compliant at all. I found the others and we enjoyed the different food and drinks. The festival was to end with a firework show. It was amazing, but the rain was getting worse and since we only had one umbrella which we kind of burrowed, (I'm sorry, Ben!), we couldn't quite fit in beneath it. 

After the show we said goodbye and I went to my almost dry bike with my almost dry bag and went looking for a better place to wait out the rain. 

After a while I departed towards a city near the outskirts of Nagoya, but decided to sleep in Nagoya port park. I wasn't alone. I saw 30 cats hiding different places from the rain and at least 3 other people were sleeping on benches like me. Haha! 

The mosquitos were really active, but I managed and slept relatively well. Let's see what happens tomorrow. 

I really hope that Samar will go to Fukuoka to meet us, if it doesn't happen then I hope to see her again soon. It is amazing that 3 years has gone by and it still feels like we live in the old i-house and no time passed at all. Friends are amazing and I'm lucky to have been able to meet so many through my life so far.

My trip here still feels unreal. I meet people I know, people I don't know. I try new things and remember old memories. I live from day to day, sometimes from your to hour. And I'm only bound by my own stubbornness to reach my goal, Sata Mizaki, the most southern part of Kyushu. I have to bike, I want to bike, but I don't want injuries, getting drenched or putting myself in situations were I can't come back. 

But that all happens, and that is a part of this trip and a part of life. I don't know the outcome of this trip or some of the decisions I make while I'm here, but I hope that I can have the best, craziest, toughest and most memorable trip ever and that it will inspire me to push my boundaries, and sometimes my luck, so that I can live everyday and not regret what I didn't do. 

Distance: 25 km.

Time: 1.30

Condition: tired of mosquito bites.. 

Quote: just shoot all the firework off at the same time and let us go home!

 

Day 23 - Nagoya sightseeing and Nostalgia

17/9

So the manga cafe wasn't the most.. Comfortable place to sleep. But morning it was and we had things to do so we checked out and went to the station and locked my luggage in a locker. It wasn't the best weather, but still hot and we were kind of lazy, but we went to the castle and it was nice. Must be the biggest castle I have visited yet, and it was kind of cheap for all the things you could see in there.

I have been kind of disappointed with Nagoya so far. I don't know, maybe I just didn't go to the right places, but I'm not sure I will return here unless I find something I really want to see.

So we went back to where Samar lives and it remained me a lot of our time in Fukuoka.. I really am grateful for the time I had 3 years ago, and staying here for a day has made me remember how it was like in our I-House.

Tonight's dinner was going to be kind of special. I heard that there was a katsudon challenge, 6 portions, 30 minutes. I thought it was possible, but the time limit was going to be tough. I sat down and although I went with Samar and her friends we couldn't sit at the same table. There were a lot of people in the restaurant too and the couple sitting next to me was very impressed that I took on the challenge. We talked a lot too, very kind people and they cheered on me.

Half way through the dish and I was getting full. I tried my best and with 5 minutes left I was almost sure I could take it, but suddenly I felt like I simply couldn't eat anymore. I was like 15 spoons from finishing, but the time ran out and I was about to burst..

I ended up finishing the dish, but I couldn't walk and I had to use the bathroom facilities before going home. This is the second time I ate so much that I couldn't contain it and I wonder if all this traveling as made me weaker when it comes to eating a lot of food. But I'll take it next time for sure. I was so close!

The couple said they might be visiting Denmark and I got their business card and contact information. I hope that when I'm done with the trip I have all these new friends and contacts. That would be awesome, I think.

We went back to the I-house and talked for a couple of hours and I planned what I will do the next couple of days. There is another typhoon (it has to stop soon, please) coming and the rain its pushing in front of it is hitting Nagoya area now.

So tomorrow there will be a festival and after that I'll make my way through Nagoya city to the mountains and Iga, the ninja village. I might have to bike in the rain, but I'll like to stick to my schedule and once I'm in Kyoto the typhoon doesn't really matter.

I slept in a parking lot because there are visitor hours and couldn't stay, but it wasn't too bad! Tomorrow I'll also go to a bike store and get maintenance done.
Pictures from the food challenge will come on Facebook soon!

Distance: none biked.
Time:---
Condition: tired and still full!
Quote: this is just stupid silly. There is too much food!

Day 22 - On to Nagoya!

16/9

So this morning I woke up and the best morning feast I have had on the entire trip so far was waiting for me. I was about ready to leave around 9.30, a bit late, but I thought the trip today was very easy so it didn't matter all that much.

I said goodbye to the couple I stayed with after thanking them for everything they had done for me. I am truly grateful for everything they had done for me! I had a slow start and I couldn't quite figure out where I was supposed to go through the mountains when I met this old man who was out for a power walk. He asked me if I wanted help and we talked while waking to the road I was looking for. That took about 40 minutes though..

I love talking with people here, but doing so also takes time from my schedule and since it gets dark fast here it's not always a good idea to just forget everything and keep the conversation going.

But today I talked to so many people. In front of the stores I meet people all the time. The most special encounter happened today. Three guys who are touring the world with their rickshaw from Asakusa, Tokyo. They want to be part of the 2020 Tokyo Olympics opening ceremony and they will go to Europe. They are really awesome and I wish them the best of luck!

I was really late for meeting Samar, the friend of mine who I studied with in Fukuoka 3 years ago, but we managed to get a Taxi and get to the station before the last train. We wanted to stay at a manga cafe and go sightseeing tomorrow. This part of the city is really boring and I hope we will find something more interesting tomorrow. A little disappointed...

Distance: 178 km.
Time: 9.30 H
Condition: Tired, but it is already 5 am...
Quote: Trucks are stupid!

Day 21 - From Tokyo through Shizuoka!

15/9

I woke up and found out that I wasn't the only one sleeping in the park this morning. I had taken the best place, of course. Actually, last night a couple came close to the small bench where I was about to go to sleep and I don't know if they wanted to use it or if they were just curious, but in the end I slept there and I slept well. 

The rain didn't come during the night so I kind of felt like I need to prepare myself for an all day shower. I strapped everything, wrapped my raincoat around my bag and ventured out! The roads where plentiful and getting the right one was a problem once again. Signs are not good enough, the bike roads are a mess and if you have to cross a river, another road or the tracks then you have to do it in a car because bikes are not allowed on many of the bridges. It's like they were too lazy to add the extra space for pedestrians and bikes.. 

But when that is all said and done I managed to make good time. The people I was to stay with asked if I could be there at 15:00. It's not impossible, but adding eating breaks and getting lost once in a while makes it less manageable. I arrive at around 17:30 which is okay, I guess.

I was really excited for this part, going through Hakone, a really cool place with lots of mountains and of course the favorite of them all: Mt. Fuji. But today's weather had other plans and all though I had sun it was from the wrong side and all the clouds gathered around Fujisan.. I got to see some of the peak, but that was it. Most of the time it just looked like a wall of clouds.. 

The climb wasn't as tough and luckily I hadn't forgotten how to ride the bike. But it is so heavy with the bags on, it is unbelievable.. I will fix this in Nagoya, I have to! 

I saw many interesting things today, raced with some school kids and thought about the things I had missed while staying in Tokyo. More things I didn't miss were present than things I missed though, haha. 

As I came closer to the address I ran into the guy on the street 300 m from their house. I thought it was very nice that he came to greet me, but I wondered for how long he had been standing there waiting. Turned out he just arrived and I didn't feel so bad about arriving kind of late compared to what I wanted to do. 

The people I'm staying with are so nice. They have a small restaurant and the food was delicious and there was a lot. Like too much. But that's how it is here. If you keep eating they keep making more. But my Danish upbringing is telling me to finish what is put in front of me. Talk about culture crash alright. 

Sushi, crab, tempura, yakionigiri and some other things I didn't get the name on was consumed in a fashionable manner. I ate until there was nothing on the table and told them that I couldn't possibly eat anymore and not an hour later I was presented with a midnight snack, green tea and club soda. I will get too used to eating a lot if I stayed here for too long, haha. 

Oh, and we went to onsen, hot spa, and of course it was amazing as always. I can't describe how grateful I am that they wanted me to stay at their place. We talked, played board games and watched television until it was 00:00.

Tomorrow I'll go 160 km. Nagoya is the destination and there, Samar, my friend from my exchange time in Fukuoka, is waiting for me. We'll be sightseeing the next day after staying at a manga cafe downtown. If it is going to rain then please do it in 3 days time, I don't have time to deal with rain tomorrow. 

Distance: 160 km.

Time: 8:30 hours

Total distance: 2061!!! I reached 2000 km. This is more than half way done. Unless I get lost. Everyday. 

Condition: That good kind of sleepy where you know you'll fall asleep right away. 

Quote: Fujisan, please....! 

Day 20 - Tokyo dinner party and Farewell!

14/9  

Today was my last day in Tokyo, the city that never sleeps. I like Tokyo for what it is, but I never want to live there. It's a place with endless opportunities and you can constantly find new things to enjoy, but I can settle for less and besides, I need more space, haha. 

Waking up super late, around 11:30, we ate breakfast, watched TV and searched for restaurants which wasn't easy, but we managed. I went to buy new shorts because having one pair is too little when you spent so much time in one city without wearing bike pants. Yeah, I'm not wearing those bad-boys in Tokyo without a bike next to me, haha. 

We met up with a lot of my friends from Copenhagen university and Japanese students who had been in our exchange program. It was good to see everyone and we enjoyed delicious Japanese BBQ! 

After that Takuya and I went home and I packed my stuff and II departed at around 21:30. 

Now, I don't really like to say goodbye, partly because it's more like "see you later", but maybe also because I'm not very good at it... 

I wish I could do something to return the favor to Takuya and his mom, but for now I hope they know how grateful I am to have been living with them for these past 5 days. It made my time in Tokyo so much easier and I learned a lot. I hope that I can do something similar for them sometime, but for now I'll have to be in debt, I guess. 

Leaving Tokyo was not as difficult as getting in, luckily. I found the park I had picked out after spending 20 minutes around the station in Isehara. There was a police station right next to it, and I figured I would rather sleep and wake up by myself than having them do it for me. 

Tomorrow I'll go to Yoshida where I am to stay at Ayana's parents' friends' place. I hope it will be alright, but I can only do my best so let's see what happens. Off to sleep I go! 

Distance: 42 km

Time: 2.20 hours

Condition: thankful

Quote: Wealth comes in many shapes

Day 19 - Yokohama in the Rain

13/9

My stay at the manga cafe was worth the money and time, but I met the rain as soon as I opened the door. My bike was parked on the other side of the road and with the rain falling on it it kind of showed me the next few days, or so it felt. I have looked at the weather forecast and it says rain the next 4 days. I might have to just bike through it. I have things to do and people to meet.

I went to a American styled restaurant called Jonathan's. It's basically the same as Gasto, just a different menu. I sat there for 2 hours and 30 minutes, but the rain only grew in intensity. I decided to go around the time the archive opened. That was my mission today. I arrived and stated my business, and besides looking at the quite normal exhibition of the opening of Japan to the western world nothing really caught my attention.

What I was after was hidden in the basement of the building. I went down and signed in as the receptionist demanded, I thought it was a lot of work to go through what looked just like a library, but determined to find the recordings of my ancestors I went on.

After having spent almost 4 hours in the building, where 2-3 of them were used on looking through various books, I found the names. I took a copy of some of it and I can't wait to return and show it to my family.

I also looked at some of the first newspapers, both foreign and Japanese. And some satirical installments of a British and a French journalist. The drawings were both clever and funny and it was a really interesting experience to stand with the materials that I have read about and used in my assignments.

After that I made my way through the rain to Takuya's place and went to the mall and relaxed. I ate a delicious dinner and took a shower and now I'm about ready to sleep. I can't wait for tomorrow and BBQ buffet!

Distance: 22 km.
Time: 1.27 hour
Condition: Happy, but hoping that it won't rain for days..
Quote: good thing I always save a smile for when the rain comes.